If you’re going to run with your dog, you’ll need to invest in a pair of good running shoes. In fact, running shoes will likely be your biggest expense when you’re starting to run. You can seriously mess up your feet, ankles, and/or knees if you run in shoes that are too old or don’t suit you. Just as it’s important to watch over your dog and make sure it’s handling the running, it’s important to watch over your own health as well.

When buying running shoes it’s really recommended that you see a podiatrist or a specialist running shop and get them to recommend a type of running shoe for you. No, Athelete’s Foot is not a specialist running shop. In my area, for example, we have Runner’s World – check out running forums and such for a good store in your area (I’ve put together some resources and good communities to check out when getting into running at the end of this post).

Anyway, personal stories aside, here are some general tips about running shoes:

• Running shoes last approximately 400-600km. This does not apply to all running shoes, some may last hundreds of kilometres more and others may last less. When you start getting up in the km in your shoes pay attention to any new joint pain you may have, whether your shoes start or feel “flat”, new muscle soreness or tension, or anything else of the sort. If you pay attention to your body you should be able to feel when it’s time to get a new pair of running shoes. Don’t go just by the look of your shoes – your shoes may still look great, but the cushioning on the inside could be completely worn away. How quickly your shoes wear out will also depend on your weight and how hard you are on your shoes.
• Just because a pair of shoes feels good to walk in does not mean it will be good to run in. Some shoes may feel great to run in, but absolutely horrible to walk in. This is why so many runners have dedicated running shoes and never use them for anything except running.
• Start off slow when breaking in a new pair of running shoes. You don’t want to risk injury by launching into a super long run in shoes you haven’t run in before.
• When you find a great type of shoe to run in, stick to that shoe. You don’t have to try a new model each time you buy a new pair of shoes – keep using what works.

Some useful online resources for the beginner runner (or any runner, for that matter):
CoolRunning
The Runners Guide
Runner’s World Forums

Do you have any tips or experiences to share about running on your own or with your dog? Please leave a comment below!

Personally, I could not handle Keeda pulling me along during our runs. Not only is it just plain uncomfortable, but it also displays a lack of control over my dog. When she sees another dog, or cat, or whatever else grabs her interest she will bolt straight at it because when she’s pulling me along she isn’t doing a job – she’s just going nuts on a leash. When she runs along beside be on a loose leash, Keeda is doing a job. Her job is staying next to me, watching and responding to my movements. When she sees something interesting she will look toward it, maybe even start moving toward it because we’re not perfectly trained yet , but she knows that she is not to go for it.

These are some reasons why I would always suggest teaching a dog to heel before running with it. But for people who are happy with their dog pulling ahead during their runs, I say keep doing what works for you. It’s better to run with a puller than to not run at all (assuming you can keep control of the dog and make sure everyone is safe).

What do you think? Is teaching a dog to run on a loose lead as important to you as it is to me?

So I decided to create my own home-made solution to the problem when I run with my dog. The “solution” would consist of a belt to go around my waist and a leash with a clip on either side to clip one side onto the belt and the other onto my dog’s collar. I went to Bunnings on Saturday morning and bought the following:

• A pack of two nylon tie-down straps, 2.5m each. I’m not sure the technical name for these, but they were straps around 3cm wide and 2.5m long with a metal buckle that resembled a belt-buckle. You pass one end of the strap through the buckle and it holds the “belt”. This was originally meant for holding things down on top of cars or trailers by tightening the nylon straps around the object.
  
• A pack of four metal rings, 2.5cm in diameter. You can use as many as you want for your hands-free dog leash. I used two.
  
• Two metal clips for the leash. One leash clip was like a regular clip you’d see on a leash you buy from the store. The other, however, opened in a way that instantly releases whatever it’s holding as the two “pincers” part in the middle, not on the side like the regular clip does.
  

You will also need a sewing machine (unless you plan on doing this by hand) and some strong thread that isn’t pure cotton, such as nylon.

First, the belt. The nylon straps I bought were 2.5 metres each, which should be plenty for just about anybody. Wrap the strap around you to decide what length your belt will need in order to fit you comfortable. I suggest leaving some excess length to the strap just in case. Cut off the length you don’t need and seal the nylon edges by running a burning match over the fraying ends quickly (you might need a few tries to get the hang of it, which is where that excess length comes in useful).

Once you’ve sewed on all of the rings you need, your belt is complete. Keep in mind that this version of the belt doesn’t have any padding on the back, which is fine for dogs that don’t pull or smaller breeds. If you have a large pulled, however, or if you’re building the hands-free dog leash for a child, you might want to be careful that the belt doesn’t put too much pressure on the back.

Moving on to the hands-free dog leash itself. Judge how long your leash should be by your dog’s size and how much slack you want to give it when you run. Keeda stands just below my knee and I want her to be in a Heel when we run, so I cut off just enough of the second nylon strap to form a loose “L” when the leash is clipped at my hip and to her collar. I made sure to leave about 10cm of excess strap for the purpose of attaching the clips. Loop about 5cm of the end of the nylon strap through your clip and sew it in place. Sew around all of the borders and sew a V or X pattern into the middle to make sure the stitching is strong and sturdy. Do the same for the second clip. I cannot reiterate this enough – make sure that everything is being held together properly! Don’t do a shoddy job on the stitching or you could wind up in trouble later.

You’re done! Use the clip with two pincers that open equally on both sides and release whatever they’re holding instantly to attach the leash to your belt. This way should you need to urgently release your dog, you can undo the clip quickly and easily.

Test out your new hands-free dog leash and tell me how you go! Check out our results:

It just goes to show that no matter what breed you have – you can always exercise with your dog. Just remember that each breed has different needs and keep a closer eye on your dog for signs of overheating, dehydration, fatigue, or other issues you know might be more prominent for its type. Now get your dog, put those running shoes on, and start pounding those streets.

Sure, there might be the initial frustration of having to teach your dog how to run beside you calmly and not jerk on the lead. But once you get that down pat, running becomes so much more fun. It’s great fun to have a companion on your run.

It’s More Motivating to Run With Your Dog

Seeing your dog’s eyes light up when you reach for the lead before your run, being able to see the fitness benefits your dog gets from running, and knowing that you’re keeping your dog healthy and happy can be very motivating to keep going.

Kill Two Birds With One Stone

Not only do you get in shape, but you also take care of your dog’s exercise needs at the same time!

It’s More Safe to Run With Your Dog

You often feel much safer when you know there’s a dog running with you. Potential attackers would think twice before messing with a runner who has a dog at their side. Your dog can also often help you to detect potential danger by sensing trouble before you do.

You Look Cooler

Let’s face it – you look much cooler when running with your dog. Runners are a dime a dozen, you see one in the neighborhood and don’t bat an eyelash. But when people see you jogging along in your hardcore running gear with a fit dog by your side, they’ll take note and probably think “Wow, that runner is so hardcore! I should go running with my dog.”

That last one’s a joke. But really, everyone will love you .

Keeda does a great job of walking on the lead. I tied her rope-leash around my waist to keep both hands free while running. Read more about teaching your dog to walk on a leash.

When we’re running, Keeda is expected to stay in the same position as her walking “heel”.

After a good running session, we take a walk to cool down and then visit the water fountain. Keeda is allowed do drink a little water, but never too much if she is too hot. Allowing a dog to drink too quickly after strenuous exercise can be dangerous.

Here are some more photos from this weekend:

One of the most common reasons why running with your dog can get frustrating is pulling. The best way to overcome this frustrating dog running problem is to teach your dog not to pull.

There are many different training methods and techniques out there and each dog trainer and dog owner will recommend different things. Here is how I taught Keeda not to pull on the leash during our walks and running sessions:

As soon as we started going for walks on leash when Keed a was a puppy, she was not allowed to put any strain on the leash. If she began to pull, I stopped in my tracks and waited for the leash to slacken. Sometimes I turned around and started walking in the opposite direction.

She “got” it soon enough, but just because a dog understands what it’s meant to be doing doesn’t mean it will do it. Keeda kept pulling, to the point of it becoming an extremely frustrating ordeal for both of us. We could barely walk together, much less run.

This is where different training methods suggest that you deal with the problem differently. and there is a lot of controversy in the dog world around the various methods.

Personally, I’m in favor of applying some physical force in dog training. Of course this depends not only on your own preference, but also on your dog’s breed and nature. Keeda is a hardy dog – she has Australian Cattle Dog and Kelpie in her, both of which can be headstrong, independent, and stubborn and need a strong hand in training.

So the way I dealt with this training issue is by lightly smacking Keeda on the side with the soft end of the leash when she pulled to get her attention and get her back in line by my side. For us, this worked instantly. Keeda slowed down to walk by my side, the leash slack in my hand. As soon as the leash was slack and she was in proper position, I gave her lots of verbal praise. Of course, Rome wasn’t built in a day and it took us a couple more walks to perfect our walking and running sessions. After the first couple of weeks, I haven’t had to apply any more physical force to get her attention when walking on a leash. Our walks became more relaxed and pleasant for both of us and the transition to running was seamless.

One of the most important factors in training your dog not to pull is consistency – don’t punish your dog for something one minute and let it slide the next. Applying some physical force during training may not be your thing, but it’s just as important to stay consistent with whatever other training method you use. And remember – there is a difference between using force to get your dog’s attention and causing undue pain to your dog. You should know the difference between a corrective slap on the wrist and a punch in the face in human terms, nobody has any excuse to abuse their dog or any other animal, no matter what training method they use. If you aren’t sure, stick to clicker training, which can also work for many dogs.

When your dog stops pulling on your daily walks, you can start running. Dogs can get more excited when going for a run, so the first few times you run with your dog may still be quite a frustrating ordeal, but through consistent training you and your dog will catch on soon enough and I will no longer have people coming here via “frustration with running with  dog” search terms.

Terri adopted Lola from the Humane Society. To exercise Lola, Terri takes a 2 mile jog with her at 6:00am four days per week and also walks 1 mile every evening with her 6 year old Beagle Buddy.

In Lola’s first year of life, she was kept in someone’s backyard, she did not know how to walk on a leash when we adopted her. She pulled and fought us every step of the way. This was a way for me to teach her how to walk on a leash, how to heel and at the same time, keep her busy and in shape. She is a working dog and when she is not exercised regularly, she gets into trouble! She needs daily stimulation just like we do, this keeps us both healthy in our body and mind. – Terri

Because Lola didn’t know how to walk on a leash when Terri adopted her, they had to start gradually:

I would start walking with her short periods, teaching her she had to stay on my right then increase to a mile then 2 miles. I had to use the pinch collar for about 5-6 months as a training tool, she is very aware of her surroundings and gets distracted easily. She had zero impulse control and would literally drag me to see people or other dogs in our path. – Terri

Terri and Lola

Once Lola learned how to walk politely on a leash, Terri started jogging. She taught Lola to move off of the sidewalk and onto the grass when other people and dogs pass by them and Lola now does this naturally without Terri having to give her the “over” command.

I asked Terri if she had any advice for people with larger dogs who pull like Lola used to when they’re starting out trying to jog.

I guess my advise would be to start slow and be consistent. Your dog will learn the routine, make it fun for them praise them as you go, scratch them on the head, talk to them. – Terri

Jogging with your dog is a great activity to take up for both your dog’s and your own fitness. Big thanks to Terri for sharing her dog exercise experiences and tips with us!

If you’d like to submit your own story about exercising with your dog or dog fitness in general, please e-mail 1 Fit Mutt at info@1fitmutt.com

How often do you exercise your dog, really? And I don’t mean taking a walk around the park or tossing it a ball a couple of times per day. I mean real exercise that wears your dog out – the type that, when you’re all finished, sends your dog straight to its sleeping spot for a restful, satisfied nap.

In this day and age people don’t seem to pay much attention to whether the breed of dog they’re interested in getting suits their lifestyle or living space. You see German Shepherds in tiny apartments, Boxers in cramped backyards, Australian Cattle Dogs in two bedroom houses. It’s great that we have the option of getting any breed we desire. After all, why should it be a problem? You get a Border Collie, you feed it and bathe it and play fetch with it when you’re free. You even take it to puppy school and maybe more advanced Obedience classes. The dog gets to laze around on the couch all day. You’re taking care of your pet, right?

Well, not really. While you seem to be taking great care of your dog, you may notice some underlying issues below the surface. You come home to a destroyed couch, so you lock your dog up in a crate or in the backyard when you leave next time. But then you come back to a crying, howling dog and maybe some not-so-kind words from your neighbors about the noise – oh, and maybe a few freshly dug holes where your garden used to be. You decide that your Border Collie is getting out of line and hire a personal dog trainer to fix your pet, which doesn’t seem to be much help. Then, you maybe start noticing that your dog seems to be getting a bit chubby around the waist and that you’re having to take it to the vet more often with little (or big) health problems. Your dog doesn’t seem as energetic and full of life as it was before.

Do you want to know one possible reason why your dog may have been exhibiting destructive behavior and chewed your couch to bits in the first place? Boredom and excess energy. And the reason your dog may have been crying and digging holes in the backyard all day? Boredom and excess energy. The dog trainer probably didn’t help because your dog’s only problem isn’t with training – it’s with, you guessed it, boredom and excess energy. Of course each dog is an individual, but we see too many dogs and their owners falling into this type of pattern. Just about everybody has known somebody who has complained about these types of “behavioral” problems with their dog despite extensive training efforts. If you asked them how many times they exercise their dog, you likely would have heard something along the lines of “Oh, we let him out to go to the bathroom every day.” or “Oh, we toss the ball for him in the yard”.

Too many owners leave regular exercise out of the equation. They think that a walk around the block is all that any dog will ever need. This simply isn’t true. A pug may be happy with such a walk, but the aforementioned Collie will go nuts with boredom and excess energy if this is all the daily exercise it gets. All dogs were bred to do a certain job and some of these jobs require dogs to be more energetic than others. Your Border Collie, for example, was bred to herd cattle. This requires it to run around after cows and sheep and other livestock for hours on end. It requires a great amount of endurance and drive to work. It doesn’t matter that your particular dog has never seen a cow in its life – herding and working is in its blood. Your Border Collie is craving the type of physical activity it was bred to be good at and it is your job to provide it with said exercise. Our dogs rely on us to keep them happy and healthy and keeping them fit is a huge and essential part of their needs.

Here at 1 Fit Mutt, my goal is to help dogs achieve optimum fitness and happiness levels through regular exercise sessions. I realized that too many dogs don’t get the exercise they require. This lack of an essential outlet for dogs’ energies manifests itself in behavioral problems such as excessive barking, destructive tendencies, hyperactivity, and even aggressive behavior. On top of this, dogs who aren’t given the exercise they need can become overweight and develop all sorts of other health problems.

So right now I dare you to go outside with your dog and start running. See if you can make it to the next street and keep going.

Always make sure that your dog is well hydrated. If you’re taking an especially long run, bring some water with you.

Harnesses for Small Dogs

Small dogs can have quite fragile necks. If your dog is of a smaller breed and hasn’t been trained to not pull on a leash, put it into a harness rather than attaching the leash to its collar. Or better yet, teach it some leash manners to make life easier for the both of you.

If Your Dog is Lazy, Get Excited

If your dog is lazy and doesn’t want to go outside, show it how excited you are about going for a run. Your dog will sense your enthusiasm and may be more cooperative. Praise your dog as it begins to put effort into the exercise. You may need to start off with some power walking as opposed to running to get your dog going.

If Your Dog is Hyperactive, Calm Down

If your dog is the type to go crazy at the prospect of stepping outdoors, running with it on a leash may seem next to impossible. What’s more, your dog will sense your own agitation and frustration and get even more wound up. Stay calm, don’t get angry or annoyed at your dog, as you go outside to run. If the dog senses that you are calm and in control of the situation, it is likely to settle down a bit on its own. Just like in the case of a lazy dog, you may need to start off with a few power walking sessions and some leash manner training before starting longer running sessions.

Pace Yourself

Unless you’re an active runner yourself, your dog is likely to be able to run for greater distances and longer times than you are. Remember to pace yourself. If you launch into a full-blown sprint you may be worn out by the time you reach the next street. This won’t provide much fitness benefit to your dog.

Let your Dog Run on Grass

Running on concrete or asphalt can be tough on your dog’s paws, especially if it’s not accustomed to running on such hard surfaces. Try starting out by running on grass, or allowing your dog to trot on the grassline next to the sidewalk.

Trotting – not Sprinting

Many people tend to think that running with your dog requires them staying in their “gallop”-type gait. It’s perfectly fine for your dog to trot next to you throughout the run. You can work a couple of quick sprints into your run, but for the most part your dog will be trotting alongside you.